Winemaker and Vineyard: This illustrious cru, whose name in old French meant "too much trouble" or "too annoying" (when working the land), is located on one of the best-exposed parts of the famous Pomerol plateau and was acquired in 1953 by the Établissements Jean-Pierre Moueix, who have since been its operators. The mixed soils - half gravel resting on clay and half deep black clay - on a bed of iron crud give the wine both power and depth as well as great complexity. The vineyard, partly spared by the dramatic frosts of 1956, has an average age of close to 35 years. It is traditionally cultivated (regular plowing, thinning, leaf stripping) and ideally harvested over two or three afternoons. Fermentations take place in cement vats, and the young wine is then aged in oak barrels, half of which are renewed every year.

Tasting: Tasted blind as a vintage comparison at the Valandraud vertical, the 2008 Trotanoy has an attractive bouquet with engaging clarity and purity: raspberry preserve, wild strawberry, a trace of something almost medicinal just below the surface. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity, subtle notes of cedar and tar infusing the red berry fruit with a composed, structured finish with plenty of freshness and vigor. Classic in style, well crafted and sure to give another two decades of pleasure, this is a stupendous Trotanoy that is up there with the 2009 and 2010 . Yes, it's that good and in fact, it kept on improving as it opened in the glass. Tasted December 2016. robertparker.com (01.03.2017)

Service: Serve at room temperature (16-18°C) to accompany a roast pigeon with horn of the dead mushrooms.